PFW AW14: Louis Vuitton

It was the dawning of the age of Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton today in Paris, and going by his much anticipated debut, the future of Louis Vuitton will be just that, anticipated joyfully in captivating earnest. The new creative director made sure to put this in his own, touching, words, proclaiming before the show, “Today is a new day. A big day… Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this moment … Above all, immense joy.”

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Ghesquière tactics were wise, approaching the new Louis Vuitton with simple, statement, minimally flared silhouettes and quant A-line cuts, which appeared trim and crisp, but exciting nonetheless; this is LV with real staying power. While the peppy thigh-high hems and additional flared A-line pea coats may have alluded to the 1960s, it was impossible to date the chic threads that took on the uncomplicated catwalk setting, that benefited from the designer’s timeless luxuriant touch.

In fact, the former in-house artisan at Balenciaga, crafted leather, LV’s synonymous stock-in-trade, with a cutting-edge modernity that looks to a future in which the brand will promptly affirm its high-stakes status, inching LV to a new level, in which new motifs and accessories will open the flood gates for a significant revenue stream. The emphasis on lustrous sartorial skins was increasingly detailed but controlled, cinching leathery belts became a layered focal point, and wrinkled leather jackets in ripened, mature colour schemes, flanked by polished crocodile skin coats effortlessly became stand-outs, paired with the new, nippy and rather diminutive, trunk-like line of handbags.

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Ghesquière unequivocally took a firm hold of the reins for his first outing, and from stylish patchwork eveningwear, brimming with knitted and feathered intricacies, to sleek, acutely flattering high-waisted trouser shapes, nothing felt forced. Prudent, considerately crafted boots, with a subtle kinky instinct, occasionally decorated with the illustrious monogram print, indicate that Ghesquière, the newly appointed good shepherd, is merely getting his toes wet for now, and at this moment in time, it works, only time will tell what he sees fit to offer up next time around.

By Liam Feltham

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