PFW AW22: Miu Miu

WHEN a collection leaves you saying, “I want it all”, you know something is being done right. And as much as you cherish this rare moment of awe, what follows is a restrained rationality. Do I really love all of these clothes? Or is this the power of Miu Miu marketing?

Because, as those in the know know, Miu Miu seems to have become a trend in itself, infamous for creating a shirt-jumper-skirt set that now boasts its own instagram account because of its wide use in editorials and on the most famed celebs.

First it was skiwear at the AW21 show, which we have worn all year round since; then the micro skirt trend of SS22, aforementioned; and now, for AW22, a sportier take on their previous collection, one which homed in on menswear codes to the extent that menswear made an official return to the Miu Miu catwalk for the first time since 2008.

And although questioning whether I truly loved it all, I’ve woken up this morning still struggling to spot anything I don’t like about the collection. The power of Miuccia Prada and her exquisite take on the Miu Miu woman, and now Miu Miu man, is masterful.

Spilling from Miuccia Prada’s mind were sensible argyle knits, micro shorts, leather trousers, ballet pumps inspired by a phase of her youth, shearling jackets embroidered with bow like imagery, baroque reminiscent lace encased by oversized blazers, sparkling webbed two pieces with sheer neck ties.

Each leaving space for arguably the star of the show, the adaption of the SS22 Miu Miu brief, the AW22 Miu Miu bloomer, which was peeking out from the low-waist bands, at points juxtaposed by sturdy double belting, and at others, used to tuck in place loose knits and shirting.

The knitted socks of SS22 were made chunkier and the trench coats were reimagined in worn down leather perhaps in reference to the colder season – an element that was rarely acknowledged in the collection, for who cares for weather when you’re wearing Miu Miu?

Saying that, the white fur trim framing collars and decorating the chest of shirts does exude a certain warmth, despite its platinum white tone.

Within these new variations, a genderless approach became increasingly apparent, boxy cuts, heavy proportions and the sporty uniform undertone cut through the girly-ish affair with a toughened up outlook.

And when considered against the heavy leather boots that stomped past the audience relaxing in their deck chairs designed by duo Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg, and the shift was undeniable.

So when menswear appeared through this magical mirage, it was a definitive and triumphant “Miu Miu menswear is back” moment for the house. For SS22, the androgynous take on back-to-work sensibility got everybody reminiscing about the often forgotten Miu Miu menswear line, one which has since had a healthy resurgence thanks for resale sites such as Vestiaire and Depop.

It figured, therefore, that Prada would tap into this natural consequence of her designs, sprinkling the AW22 collection with tennis fits, styled with the Penny loafers that had exclusively been made for women up until now, shearling coats in rich browns, and Miu Miu knit and leathers that will undoubtedly be commercialised for the Miu Miu man.

Finished with sequin appliqué, glittering crystals, and a leather expertly manipulated to look like snakeskin, and the hypnotic abilities of Miu Miu were crystal clear.

Armed with a diverse cast of models, stylist Lotta Volkova, and her pool of not-so-serious references, and Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu has reached her utmost potential. But I say this every season, and every season I am shown just how far Miu Miu has yet to go.

by Lily Rimmer

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