VIDEOGAMES, film and fine art have all inspired previous Loewe collections, and for autumn-winter 2024, Jonathan Anderson – Loewe’s creative director – has perpetuated this tradition.
Inspired by the work of Albert York, an American fine artist, the latest seasonal offering references the painter’s idyllic landscapes and serene still-life compositions.
Since being inspired by the work of Lynda Benglis for its spring-summer 2024 campaign, Loewe has continued to look to classic iconography for inspiration. Prior to his death in 2009, York painted many scenes surrounding his home in Southampton.
“I think we live in a paradise. This is a Garden of Eden. Really. It is. It might be the only paradise we’ll ever know. And it’s just so beautiful. And you feel you want to paint it,” reads a quote from York in the collection’s show notes. Acting as a study on provenance and its importance in today’s society, the ensemble analyses tropes across our zeitgeist from an outsider’s perspective.
Transforming the show space into a maze-inspired art gallery, the references to York’s work were impossible to disregard. Utilising three shades of green, one lighter than the other, the space alluded to the abundance of greenery in York’s work.
The collection, abundant in presence and playfulness, brings York’s paradisiacal sentiment to life. Combining abstraction with bluntness, while also commenting on class and wealth, the ensemble emphasises the privilege that comes with being alive.
From Etonian morning suits to a mosaic dog ring, the pieces all work together to form a cohesive yet fun display of craftsmanship.
Wooden carvings have been turned into coat collars, whereas York’s floral paintings are reinterpreted as beaded embellishments on dresses or prints on tailored trousers. Similarly, delicate beading work appears on biker boots and Squeeze bags to add further detailing and intrigue.
Hard and soft lines juxtapose to provide an eclectic mélange of straight cuts and draping. Sculptural in form, jackets, slacks, neckties and short dresses twist and turn to envelop the body in new capacities. However, intricate tailoring arrives in the form of masculine silhouettes and volumes.
Prints remain a focal point of the collection with the appearance of a hyper-real ostrich trompe l’oeil. Meanwhile, Anderson has also expertly masked material’s materiality through the illusion of print. Tartans have also been rendered in sliced chiffon for further 3D fabrication and texture.
Calling upon his artistic prowess, Anderson has delivered yet another sparkling Loewe offering.
by Sophie Richardson