PFW SS14: Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann’s spring 2014 collection show at Paris Fashion Week was a sexy display of sharply executed trousers and coats, and a showcase of the power of subtle patterns. Colours used in the collection were beautiful and reserved in their boldness, like a golden yellow, a vampy burgundy occurring in much of the collection, sombre violet tones and deep, midnight-ish blues.

The models were doused in layers of garments, from tee-shirts to waistcoats to trenches and unfurled scarves.  There were peeks of minuscule polka dot prints, whether understated in the lip of a collar, or more boldly in the form of a pant.

The general feel of the collection was bad boy-chic; the models were tattooed and comfortably wore motorcycle jackets, vampy colours and drop-crotch pants. They had pomade-slicked hair and cuffed sleeves, tailored coats and blazers all with a deliberate sort of unkempt about them. The demeanor of the presentation brings to mind Kenneth Anger’s 1963 ‘Scorpio Rising,’ and its angsty, debaucherous allure.

by Emily Rae Pellerin

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