PFW SS15: Balenciaga

Alexander Wang is proving his worth as creative director of Balenciaga sequentially by sending out the kind of clothing one expects from Paris – dressy, innovative and chic. Quite how he has the time to tick all off these word associations and many more from his Balenciaga checklist is beyond us, but the bottom line is Wang has wowed us yet again for SS.

Doting on a demure pastel monochrome colour scheme and neat complimentary embellishments, this was a collection that would have done Cristobal proud, a designer that abided by a belief that “no woman can make herself chic if she is not chic herself”. This is a mentality that still checks out at the house of Balenciaga in our often chic-less age, Wang whipping up the kind of striking cuts that only those who have a natural born chicness can adopt as their own to accentuate such the arresting aspects of their persona.

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In a succession of dresses that present the woman, and not the other way round, Balenciaga’s newest talent teetered on a few sporting extremes, laser-cutting lattice patterns into airy mesh pieces that added some new, yet oh so classic, Wang dimensions to Balenciaga’s codes. The large, looming capes that framed a few of the daintier numbers spoke of Cristobal’s fancy for severe sartorial showmanship without appearing cliché or overdone, taking a most practical route in the standout form of a covetable, with a capital c, trench coat. There’s been lots of talk about Wang taking cues from France’s recent Tour De France for the nimble streamlined style references; however, we are just enjoying the fashion ride for now, taking in the collection bit by bit to appreciate each well assigned cut and fine tuft of ruched fabric. This is Wang’s best yet at Balenciaga, so we advise you to do the same, c’est chic and that’s that.

by Liam Feltham

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