THE SS17 show staged by Dries Van Noten very much resembled an art presentation. Models with a shadow stripe over their eyes or net veil covering their face were walking around flower installations trapped within glass boxes, called Ice Flowers, created by Japanese self-proclaimed botanical sculptor, Azuma Makoto. To match this setting, they wore dresses, skirts, jackets and trousers with colourful floral print resembling abstract art paintings.
This collection was very Noten – full of masterful tailoring, techniques and luxurious materials like silk-jacquards with flower ornaments which carried on with the theme of the show, silk and satin dresses, silk chiffon mixed with lace or sandals in plush pastel yellow velvet.
It was again packed with cultural references, this time around Noten went for Japan. Traditional Geta shoes got a more easily wearable makeover, lacquered Japanese cabinets were referenced in a patent pencil skirt and a coat with a floral lining and the kimono was referenced on multiple occasions in the form of jackets and coats.
Apart from the cultural background, there was also historical reference in Victorian embellished collars and blouses and ornamental jackets with voluminous sleeves, intricately embroidered and encrusted.
The last series of looks came in all black, giving space to the many different textures to stand out, while the show began in white. The colours chosen to brighten up the collection were acid yellow and azure.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Dries Van Noten
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.