PFW SS21: Hermès

IN A set punctuated by mirrors and winding marble columns splashed with prints of Greco-Roman goddess sculptures, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented an expertly-crafted SS21 collection for Hermès to a small number of attendees.

Shown as part of Paris Fashion Week, the exquisite presentation, which was live-streamed on, referenced the surrealists Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dali and offered up the kind of ultra refinement the French fashion house – founded in 1837 as a harness shop – is so beloved for.

In tune with the polished minimalism of past seasons, 42-year-old Vanhee-Cybulski, who joined as creative director in 2014, put forward a spring wardrobe of modern pared-back classics in rich fabrics.

Largely monochrome, with hues of baby-blue, beige and tiger-red peppered throughout, supple leather midi skirts were matched with finely-knitted vests and buttery blousons while bulky gold chainmail worn over a simple cream shift injected a pop of 90s-esque drama.

Sun-appropriate staples came in the form of button-up shirts and Prince of Wales check short-sleeved jumpsuits, each look accompanied by a pair of undeniably chic studded clogs.

Renowned for her excellent accessories, Vanhee-Cybulski introduced two new additions this season – the Mors de Brides, a slim-cut crossbody bag with horse-bit hardware, and the Perspective Cavalière, an all-occasion bucket bag.

All-in-all, the collection proposed the straight-forward, beautifully-made clothes that Vanhee-Cybulski is known for. In a climate where things couldn’t seem more complicated, these are clothes that require no explanation. How refreshing.

by Joshua Hendren

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