HAVING centred her last three collections around the importance of climate success, it comes as no surprise that Chloé’s director, Gabriela Hearst, has decided to follow suit with her final offering under the brand.
Already covering topics of regeneration (autumn-winter 2022), clean energy (spring-summer 2023) and female leadership (autumn-winter 2023), the theme of this collection was consciousness.
Believing that climate success is only assured if we achieve a collective change in attitude, Hearst highlights the importance of individual action in light of global warming. The designer demonstrates how acting with purpose and poise in the face of our climate emergency is critical to redemption.
Throughout SS24, Hearst utilises flowers as a symbol of consciousness. The lotus is featured as a motif alluding to spiritual enlightenment whereas the calla lily refers to purity and innocence.
However, historically, the lily is also known to allude to death which perhaps further underlines the designer’s focus on the imminent danger of overconsumption and global warming.
With the name Chloé translating as ‘young green shoot’ in Greek, SS24 features many naturalistic, botanical-inspired silhouettes. Ruffles, lace details and cascading pleats act as petals enveloping and enshrouding the models to form a parade of flowers down the runway.
Soft, rounded lines are found within the zip openings of leather biker jackets and trench coats to mirror the delicate embellishments found throughout the collection. Evading harsh, sharp lines at all costs, Hearst adds gentle structure through gathered wool gauze skirts and her signature winged sleeves.
Meanwhile, those with a keen eye will spot the masterful ways in which the designer has emulated the zygomorphic shapes of orchids through the varying hemlines, cuts and fabrics of dresses.
With a colour palette of marigold, coral and silver, the collection exudes hope and rebirth in a time of environmental distress. Alongside the warm hues, a selection of sequins, shiny bugle beads and gold scaffolding add ornamentation and flare to the already-blooming garments.
In an ode to her time at Chloé, Hearst has redesigned a sleek clutch bag in homage to Gaby Aghion – the original founder of Chloé.
Additionally, the new Carmerla bag channels resilience and change thanks to its metallic hardware and ridged silhouette.
Having been at the helm of the brand since 2021, Hearst wanted her send-off to be a celebration of her work over the years and called upon members of the Rio de Janeiro samba school Mangueira to help her achieve this goal. Having been entranced by their performances at a younger age while growing up in Uruguay, Hearst decided they were the addition to the presentation.
Known for being the first samba school to allow a space for women to participate, Mangueira embodies Chloé’s dedication to empowering women.
Exhibiting creativity, passion and community, Hearst’s final presentation was a perfect end to her journey at the French fashion house.
by Sophie Richardson