ICONIC Chanel tweed suits and matching boots opened the SS18 show at the Grand Palais. With modern adaptions to the classic Chanel trademark, Karl Lagerfeld has successfully reimagined the tweed suit in the form of A-line dresses and co-ordinating two-pieces. Gradually altering silhouettes, dress cuts become more complex, with one dress featuring a fake hem to create an illusion of the suit. As the collection progresses, tweed is put on the backbench to make room for a multitude of lavish fabrics.
Tailoring carries the collections beginnings. Structured jackets and knee-length allows an air of sophistication. This is in contrast to the black fingerless gloves and the later introduction of leather boots. Flower fascinators with cropped veils bring a contemporary edge and tie in with the abstracted floral print. Skirts are pumped with more volume as a transition from suits to evening attire is distinguished. A tiered black column dress briefly dominates the runway before vintage inspired co-ords follow.
Sequins and feathers project youth, building to an impeccable embellished jumpsuit constructed with pockets suggesting a street-style influence. Masterfully designed dresses in the soft-blush tones have texture by the bucket load, with even more ruffles and beading than before. Dimension has been explored with sheer layers, necklines and exposed skin contributing to each outfit. The finale being a series of all white garments, allowing attention to divert to the intricate details that have shaped the collection. Ending with a show stopping look fusing menswear tailoring with women’s evening attire.
by Todd Burns