DIOR teased us with, what we thought, would be a full black and white collection. Held in the Musée Rodin, the venue was decorated with deconstructed bodily features and birdcages hanging from the ceiling. Growing from the significance of black and white, domino prints and checkerboards graced the runway. Longer-lengths and fuller skirts kept to the classic Dior style. Stunning eyewear that created a radiating shadow mesmerised the audience and highlighted the natural beauty.
Manipulation of the print begins to suggest influence from Op Art, as checkerboards warp into various sizes and in different directions. Boning and seams shaped the collection, being the focal point of many garments. Framing the shoulders and neck, the boning reflected the decorative cages above. Lightweight chiffon, lace and feathers assist with elevating the collection, adding texture and luxury.
With sheer fabrics running the show, visible undergarments and socks rebel against the formal garment creating a clash of elegance and insouciance. In the middle of the show, a flood of colour washes away the monochrome beginnings. A vibrant red dress, styled with the eyewear and a faux tattoo running along the collarbone, assisted with the rebel against the connotations of couture.
Colours in warm metallic and dusky blues held our gaze as the collection continued with a soft toned patchwork dress and sequinned naked-illusion dress before snapping back into black and white. With story-telling prints and lace, a welcomed flourish of tailored blazers and trousers tapped into the androgynous trends of the season.
by Todd Burns