The philosophy of balance with Setchu’s Satoshi Kuwata 

Ahead of his PITTI Uomo debut on 16 January 2025, the Japanese fashion designer unpacks modularity, cultural aestheticism and future hopes with GLASS.

Satoshi Kuwata. Photograph: Stefano Galuzzi

“My creative approach is rooted in the philosophy of balance between opposing forces, cultures, and styles,” said Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu ahead of his Florence outing. Kitted out in lightly-textured detachable body pieces, the brand’s combatants constantly wrestle with the parallels of functionality, sporting collections with impressive ease.   

The Japanese designer is known for his whimsically-tweaked clothes and a talent for signature accessories – like The Origami shoes with a square toe in soft calfskin or a necklace, made of compact and textured materials. The impression that he might be staging some sort of quirky fashion warm-up on the floor of Florence’s National Library proved to be off-beam, though.

“I was born and raised in Japan, where precision and discipline in craftsmanship are central, but I was also trained in the West, where experimentation and individualism are more encouraged,” he opines, as we begin to settle into our conversation. “Setchu, as a brand, is about merging these worlds: it’s about finding the middle ground between traditional techniques and modern design. Minimalism is key, but I want complexity and depth within that minimalism, which comes through in how the garments are constructed and layered.”

Setchu SS25

Setchu SS25

Kuwata was frank when asked exactly what he did to develop such an aesthetic while wrestling as an independent designer: “Developing this aesthetic has been a journey of distillation,” he admits. Early in his career, he was quite experimental, but over time, he realised that what resonates most is simplicity with sheer purpose.

“Every detail has to serve a function or tell a story, even if it’s subtle,” he agrees. “The idea of less is more only works when you can execute so I focus on craftsmanship, cutting techniques, and fabrics that speak for themselves. It has taken years to master the art of restraint while maintaining the richness of detail.”

Working through the remits of experimentation, he discovered more hidden fascination in essentialism. “[My aesthetic] wasn’t always so pared-back,” he says, explaining how early on he experimented with bold statements and complex designs, trying to push boundaries.

Setchu SS25

Setchu SS25

Setchu SS25

“As I matured, I became more interested in refining things to their essence. I think that’s a process that happens naturally with experience. As you learn more, you start to appreciate the elegance of restraint. That minimalist vein has developed with time, as I’ve learned to trust the power of simplicity.” Moving onto his SS25 collection, Kuwata is keen to share his take on modularity and functionality: two key elements that make for his practice.

“The idea that started the SS25 collection was a slit on a piece of origami paper, and this led to the idea of hooks and eyelets used to assemble and undo the different parts of pants and shirts. The aim is to create pieces that feel dynamic and adaptable—like the wearer can make them their own,” he notes.

“Modularity, for me, is about flexibility. I wanted garments that could be transformed or worn in multiple ways, allowing the customer to interact with the clothing rather than just wear it. Functionality goes beyond practical needs; it’s about creating pieces that evolve with the wearer’s lifestyle so they remain relevant and personal over time.”

Setchu SS25

Spring 2025 ties in with his broader practice, and stands as a cross-pollination of what Setchu is: a merging of precision, craft, and a sense of modern utility. “While each collection presents new ideas, the core of my work is always there: balance, versatility, and respect for both traditional and contemporary influences. SS25 continues to explore those themes but through the lens of adaptability. I think of it as a natural progression rather than a departure,” he says. 

Thus, after unpacking his technicalities and creative aestheticism, I cannot help but wonder what showing at PITTI means for Kuwata. “PITTI is a prestigious platform, and it’s an honor to be presenting the new collection in that context,” he says, beaming. “It represents a new chapter for the brand, allowing us to reach a broader, international audience while staying true to our roots. PITTI has always celebrated craftsmanship and innovation, values that align with what Setchu stands for, so it’s a perfect fit for us. It feels like the right place to share this collection.” 

Setchu SS25

Complexities did abound on the designer’s path, on which he speaks with unguarded honesty. “The biggest challenge has been staying consistent in my vision while navigating the practicalities of running a business,” he says. “The Fashion industry is fast-paced and demanding, so there’s always pressure to produce more, faster. But I’m committed to slowing things down and focusing on quality over quantity. Balancing creativity with the realities of the market has been tough, but I’ve learned to trust my instincts and take things one step at a time.”

And while the downturns shaping the system are rising at an increasingly ferocious pace, Kuwata remains hopeful—wrapping up with a dash of feel-good optimism way past our allotted interview time. “I hope that Setchu can remain resilient by staying true to its core values,” he remarks.

“The current challenges force us to think more deeply about sustainability, longevity, and the relationship we have with clothing. I believe there’s a growing awareness among consumers about the importance of quality and craftsmanship, so my goal is to continue offering pieces that are timeless and thoughtful. I also hope that Setchu can inspire a slower, more considered approach to fashion.” And just like that, I very much hope the same.

by Chidozie Obasi