“URBAN Escapism” is how New York Based designer Sylvie Millstein described her latest collection for Hellessy. Multiple scenarios come to mind when hearing that phrase, perhaps an emphasis on the excitement of city life, or rather an escape into solitude. With her designs, Millstein tiptoes on the boundary of these two very different notions perfectly, culminating in a romantically sensual collection.
A confection of day-to-night pieces, the spring season of Hellessy celebrates the self assured woman in charge of her own seductive power. In a political climate such as this, one where female sexuality is increasingly governed, the message rings more poignant than ever, and the collection infuses a distinct sexual rapport between the clothing. From the opera length leather gloves to the delicate fringing, the pieces are sensually tactile with an added sense of drama and movement. The silhouette of the body is likewise morphed with a combination of cut outs and voluminous additions, both somehow managing to flatter the figure while also obscuring its shape.
One thing most intriguing about the collection is its cohesiveness, all while notably catering to a diverse audience. The contrast between cargo trouser and poplin shirt combos with full length gowns is welcomed, and demonstrates a representation of different feminine attitudes. Key prints include that of palm trees which help to generate a cosmopolitan energy synonymous with the Hellessy muse: the globetrotter woman.
Though some pieces maybe more versatile than others, as a whole the collection works well as a transitional wardrobe from day into evening, fully representative of the client on the go. Longline denim jeans are enhanced when partnered with asymmetrical shirts, while the reinvented palm leaf print – made in partnership with Maison Hurel Paris – makes for a chic move away from a classic summertime cliché.
by Ben Sanderson