PFW AW13: Christian Dior

Could there have been a more heaven-made match than Raf Simons and Christian Dior? The directors at LVMH must surely be patting themselves on the back for their smart decision making here. With his minimalist history he wasn’t the most immediately obvious choice but his understanding of the house of Christian Dior and his sympathetic inclinations to Dior himself have allowed him to find a divine synergy with the master. What Simons presented this season was a display of utter confidence in himself and and comfort with his creations.
The clothes simply oozed the effortless elegance which Dior himself had set out to create. Clothes that made icons out of everyday women. There was no trace of ostentatious ambition or tired re-branding of the the house motifs, just wonderful design and fresh invigoration. Such as the simply cut woollen jackets finished with oversized bows in the same fabric at the neck or the bandeau dresses which had their fabric gathered skillfully at the hip to lend a couture like feeling. Simple dresses were adorned with prints of early Warhol drawings, who knows if this is something that Dior himself would ever have thought of himself but the man was a lover of modern art and would probably have been tickled pink by the playful addition. And simple trousers suits were given an extra kick at the waist to echo the 1950s New Look Dior achieved notoriety for and the famed balloon-cut coats made more than a few appearances.
The evening wear was elegant, refined and not overly sensual. The famous black and white hounds-tooth check was applied to skintight bustiers paired with pencil skirts with just a touch of feminine flourish – a slight ruffle of chiffon here or a touch of crochet there. Simple black silk and chiffon dresses were adorned in more colourful sketches and other dresses were simply black and white fabric beautifully intertwined to give a sense of  quiet drama. All in all the collection was a masterclass in how to take a label and make it your own whilst retaining the affection of the legions of fans that the house of Dior has amassed over the years. And those who are lucky enough to have inherited an original heirloom will be delighted I’m sure, to be able to add a contemporary piece that can sit harmoniously alongside its older sister. They are almost, after all, cut from the same cloth.
by Nicola Kavanagh

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Glass Magazine editor in chief

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