A VEGAN, a vegetarian and a pescatarian walk into a Mexican restaurant … They all leave convinced of how good the pork ribs must taste. Such as it was after our post-dinner chat with Nick Fitzgerald Gonzalez, owner of Tacos Padre, a welcoming and vibrant restaurant nestled under the tube line in London’s Borough Market.
Telling us about their short-ribs that are pampered and prepared for five days before hitting the table, we couldn’t help but be left with a feeling of FOMO. Maybe it was the variety of their mezcal-based drinks we sampled that compelled us to interrogate him on his culinary tricks and background, but I think the more likely explanation is simply how impressed we were by the range of flavours on offer at Tacos Padre.
The plates were mostly small, and perfect for sharing between two or three people. Our order came sporadically to our pastel-styled table which was perfect for our moments of shared enjoyment, like the discovery that the “red” part of the red guacamole was a lip-smacking, volcanic pool of Salsa Macha hidden under some freshly crisped tortilla chips.
Or when our three mayonnaise, chilli and parmesan encased corn on the cobs came – one that was altered to be vegan – and silence descended on our table as we exchanged looks of sheer pleasure. A take on a popular Mexican street food snack of corn, mayonnaise, cheese and chilli.
These had been elevated into a masterclass of flavours, sticking true to the balance you’d find on a street corner in Mexico. Sweet, smoky, with just the right amount of heat counterbalanced by fresh coriander and pumpkin seeds.
Tacos Padre, Borough Market
Fish Tacos, Tacos Padre
For the pescatarian, there were delicately crisp fish tacos, featuring a vegetable slaw with an emulsion of smoked cod roe and chilli oil. To share we ordered the cauliflower al pastor – a slab of grilled cauliflower, doused in another marinade of sweet and smokey chillies, seeds for a crunchy finish, beset on a mousse-like avocado cream. With a couple of the salads on the side to cool our palettes – the citrusy and delicate sea bream ceviche, and the intensely smokey tomato salad, the menu blew us away despite our differences in diets.
Finishing off the meal with a round of mezcal, and a slice of the most delicious Mexican Coco Tres Leches cake that uses homemade coconut dulce de leche, we were wholeheartedly blown away.
Even if you want to just satisfy your sweet tooth, I promise you, you will not be disappointed if you just stop by for a slice of this rich, creamy, coconut slice of dreams.
Red Guacamole, Tacos Padre
Frozen Margarita, Tacos Padre
The star of the show though, which I think must have had a part to play across a lot of what we ate, from the corn on the cob, to the cauliflower and guacamole, was the Salsa Macha. I’ve never eaten such a perfectly balanced, yet hard-hitting accompaniment to tacos, corn and avocado. I couldn’t leave without pressing Nick on the matter.
He said the secret is that he uses Pasilla Mixe chillies, which can only be found in the Sierra Norte region of Oaxaca. Making trips to Mexico each year to source his supplies, you really can’t fault him on his dedication to what is being served up at Tacos Padre. Were these chillies to blame for my indulgence in their range of mezcal cocktails? I can’t be sure.
Tomato Salad, Short Rib, Bream Ceviche, and Salsa at Tacos Padre
by Tristan Hedges
Find Nick and his talented team at Tacos Padre in London’s Borough Market, during their normal opening hours, Thursday to Saturday, 12 pm – 5 pm.
Or, as we were lucky enough to experience, their new evening sharing menu from 6:30 pm – 11 pm, as they serve up a storm for their restaurant residency All My Friends. To view the Tacos Padre menu visit here.
Tacos Padre, The Borough Market Kitchen Padre, Winchester Walk, Jubilee Pl, London SE1 9AG