GLIDING across the runway last October, Alexander McQueen’s SS22 collection, inspired by London’s ever-changing heavens, debuted a glistening motif of new embroideries. Beads, sequin shards and crystals embellished hems, stitched onto corsets and layered themselves on the skirting of dresses to catch the evolving light as the wearer moves.
Referencing the city’s sky, the showering of hues from the silver palette enhances the change from dusk to dawn as the collection gradually gets darker to end on a stormy note.
Alexander McQueen Embroidery. Photograph: Ruby Phular
Alexander McQueen Embroidery. Photograph: Ruby Phular
Alexander McQueen Embroidery. Photograph: Ruby Phular
Delving into how these beautiful creations were made, the perfect placement of each of the embroideries is originally discovered through pinning pater artwork onto the toiles of garments.
Once agreed on where the delicate designs should go, they are hand-stitched onto the piece replacing the paper with swatches.
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The crystal raindrops are only placed and applied during the final fittings in the London atelier, along with the chandelier embroideries, found on the black wool tuxedo jacket, are stitched onto the tonal sating lapels using a specialist curve needle.
A closer look into the detail of the SS22 collection is a reaffirmation of the savoir-faire of the Alexander McQueen ateliers who are close to being unmatched in their precision.
by Imogen Clark