CLASSIC garment cuts and baroque prints created an air of sophistication at the Roland Mouret AW18 runway. Using layers of various materials and prints, Mouret’s first look combines a geometric lace against a subtle teal and navy printed skirt. Depth comes as exposed skin under the lace and an addition of a fur coat emphasise the layers building up the outfit, whilst the contrast between the geometric lace and flowing baroque print appeals to the print clashing trend dominating this season.
Colours are an important feature to the collection, as Mouret used subdued tones of navy and khaki to contrast with vibrant tones of blush pink and pillar-box red for a contemporary aesthetic. Asymmetric draping of capes and skirts become a repetitive sight. Hemlines of wrap-around skirts follow the lines of the draped outfits, with featured stitching drawing attention. Layers and patchwork is still a present feature, with depth from exposing lace and thick corduroy being emphasised by the asymmetry of garment shapes.
As the collection develops use of colour changes, as a range outfits become one tone, using the same material for each garment. Fabric manipulation and garment silhouette becomes the focal point for outfits, as tiered ruffles complete skirts and angled-keyhole necklines break up the overpowering fabric. Following block-coloured looks, the geometric lace is reintroduced, being incorporated into evening dresses as statement panels. A soft woven fabric in a light blue, resembling denim, brings a casual vibe as the finale draws closer, but a scarlet evening dress and matching fur cape makes for a elegant finish.
by Todd Burns
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